2013 Adventure

Unlike any of the prior ones, this trip was special in many ways.  More than 20 cities in five countries in three weeks -- lots and lots of walking/hiking -- otherwise, planes, trains (long distance)/metro (local transport), automobiles, buses, Humvee vans, trams, boats, ships, cable cars - you name it.  And.. did I mention walking - like 112 hours!

Except for one day in Milan, we were always in and around water - river, bay, sea or ocean.  We were ON the water nearly half the days.  That covered Ligurian Sea near Italian Riviera, Tyrrhenian Sea near Naples, Adriatic Sea near Venice, Ionian and Aegean Seas around Greece - generically the Mediterranean Sea.  We crossed Seine river in Paris, Arno in Florence and Pisa, and Danube in Budapest.  Even our flight to and from Europe was mostly over water - North Atlantic Ocean and Hudson Bay in Canada.

A unique combination of art, architecture, science, history and geography - new and ancient, standing tall or in ruins.  Palaces, Museums, Churches, Basilicas, Cathedrals, Duomos (Dome), Castles and bridges.  Many, many naked bodies of men, women and children - all in statues, sculptures, paintings and frescoes.  Famous name artists such as Michelangelo, Leonardo Da Vinci, Bellini, Raphael, Botticelli, Titian, Vasari, Lippi; scientists/philosophers such as Galileo in Pisa, Archimedes in Seracusa, Socrates and Plato in Athens; world travelers such as Marco Polo in Venice and Columbus in Genoa.  

Venus

David

Three of the world's 16 Decade Volcanoes, known for their history of large, destructive eruptions and proximity to populated areas, lie within a 500 mile radius - covering Southern Italy and Greece - Santorini, southmost major island of Greece in the Mediterranean Sea, Mount Vesuvius near Naples/Pompeii and Mount Etna in Sicily near Catania/Taormina, the largest active volcano in Europe - and we climbed them all just to make sure they were OK.  Santorini remained quiet and peaceful; Vesuvius barely showed life - just a slight hiss of steam escaping from one corner of its caldera; and while it remained quiet when we visited, Etna showed its fury the next day, as we were leaving Sicily.  If we didn't have an early morning flight to catch, we would actually have been right there - on Mount Etna to witness it!

Nov 1, 2013 - White washed houses mark Santorini's capital Fira

Oct 21, 2013 - Mount Vesuvius from Pompeii Excavations

Oct 21, 2013 - steaming Vesuvius

Oct 24, 2013 - Mount Etna smoking, from a distance.

Oct 25, 2013 - the quiet Etna - up close!

Oct 26, 2013 - Etna awakens - from Catania Airport

Oct 26, 2013 - Steam and ash - from airplane as we left CTA

Here are some highlights - for photos click the name of each city:

• Wed Oct 16 - leave for Paris (CDG)
• Thu Oct 17 - Sightsee Paris - Notre Dame, Louvre, Eiffel Tower

  

  Eiffel Tower, Paris

• Fri Oct 18 - Sightsee Paris - d'Orsay Museum, Sacré-Cœur (Sacred Heart) Cathedral 

  

  Sacre Coeur, Paris

• Sat Oct 19 - Fly to and sightsee Pisa, train to and hike Cinque Terre (Italian Riviera), overnight in Florence

  

  Vernazza, Cinque Terre

  

  Leaning Tower of Pisa

• Sun Oct 20 - Sightsee Florence - Michelangelo in Florence, ‎Il Duomo, ‎Piazza della Signoria, ‎Uffizi Gallery, Ponte Vecchio, Palazzo Vecchio, Medici Palace, Pitti Palace

  

  Duomo, Florence

• Mon Oct 21 - Train to Naples/Pompei, Mount Vesuvius, overnight in Pompeii (Villa de Misteri) 

  

  Oct 22, 2013 - Temple of Apollo at Pompeii Scavi

• Tue Oct 22 - Sightsee Sorrento, Amalfi coast, Pompei Scavi (excavations)
  
• Wed Oct 23 - Sightsee Naples - Archaeological Museum, Catacombe di San Gennaro, Cathedral; overnight ferry to Palermo, Capital of Sicily

  

  Naples Cathedral

• Thu Oct 24 - Sicily (Palermo, Agrigento - Greek Temples, Piazza Armerina -Mosaic Castle, Mount Etna), overnight at Mount Etna

• 

  Teatro Politeama, Palermo, Sicily

  
  

  

  Concordia Temple, Agrigento, Sicily

  

  Archimedes Fountain, Isola Ortigia, Seracusa

  
  
  • Fri Oct 25 - Mount Etna hike, Seracusa, Catania, overnight in Catania

    

    Piazza del Duomo, Catania

  • Sat Oct 26 - Fly to and sightsee Milan - Cathedral, Galleria Vittorio, Sforza Castle, Santa Maria delle Grazie, Piazza del duomo, overnight in Naples.

    

    Naples Cathedral

  • Sun Oct 27 - Fly to and sightsee Budapest, Hungary - Buda Castle, Chain Bridge, Parliament, Heroes' Square, St Stephen's Basilica, Fisherman's Bastion, overnight in Budapest
    
  • Mon Oct 28 - Fly back to Milan and then train to Venice to board Cruise
  • Tue Oct 29 - Bari - churches

    

    Bari view

  • Wed Oct 30 - Olympia (near Katákolon) - Ancient Olympia, Archaeological Museum

    

    Entrance to Olympic Stadium

  • Thu Oct 31 - Athens - Acropolis, Parthenon, Agora, Museum, Syntagma Square, Arch of Hadrian, Temple of Olympian Zeus, Panathenaic Stadium

  

  Parthenon, Athens

• Fri Nov 1 - Santorini island - Akrotiri excavations, Oia views

  

  Red Sand Beach, Akrotiri, Santorini

  

  Oia, Santorini

• Sat Nov 2 - Corfu island - Palaiokastritsa Cove, Monastery

  

  Palaiokastritsa Cove, Corfu, Greece

• Sun Nov 3 - Dubrovnik, Croatia - Walls, Churches

  

  Walls of Dubrovnik, Croatia

• Mon Nov 4 - Sightsee Venice - St. Mark's Square, St Mark's Basilica, Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale) and many churches

  

  View of St Mark's Square

• Tue Nov 5 - Sightsee Venice - Accademia gallery, Rialto Bridge, Murano, and many more churches
• Wed Nov 6 - return via Frankfurt 

For more, see Tidbits.

Trip Planning

I re-live the experience of each trip three times - first when I plan it, second when I actually take it, and third by writing the blog - (not to mention, all the stories I tell.)  May be it does take the fun of "getting lost" in places you don't know and finding your way back; but in reality, no matter how much you plan, there are always surprises and new discoveries that pop up during the trip.  I plan trips with full agendas for each day, but keep enough slack to accommodate for any surprises or changes.  Especially in this day and age of non-refundable tickets and reservations, what more can you ask for!

So what kept me away from Europe all these years?

Flashback - Spring 1979: Flyers were popping up all over the campus of Vanderbilt University in Nashville, TN - "Europe 55 days, 17 countries for only $1500."  I had been in the US for about two years by then, and had about $2000 saved up.  One plan for that Summer was to make my first trip back home, but Europe trip was very tempting too.  I was about to graduate and will not be a student the following Summer.  After that, no employer would ever be happy to let me take two months off - paid or not.  I was seriously considering  the trip, until I was told that as a citizen of India, I will need visas to visit each of those countries (U.S. citizens did not.) and that would be my own responsibility.  In those days, getting a visa to each country was a 30 day affair, including snail mail time.  Getting 17 such visas in that short time was just not practical, and that was it!  Since then, although I have had layovers in most major European airports, opportunity to actually visit Europe had to wait until now. 

Fast forward to 2013: This was going to be the year - for sure!  After Mount Everest/Kathmandu, Nepal, and Australia in 2009, Mount Kailash, Lake Mansarovar and Mount Everest Tibet Base Camp, China in 2011, it was time for another long trip in 2013 - to another continent.  Europe was it - and if not 17 countries in 55 days, I wanted to see whatever could be realistically covered.  It could have been as early as Jan 16, then Apr 16, Jun 16, Sep 16 - finally, we settled on Oct 16.

Blue Sky: My planning begins with Blue Sky (meaning plan the trip as if there is no time or money constraint.)  It's a very powerful planning tool.  It really expands your vision, and only later, you bring in the reality to narrow down your choices - hopefully keeping only the best ones.  

I had watched DVDs for just about all European countries, and major cities I was interested in visiting.  Italy and Greece being my primary interests, I also studied the history and geography of the area.  Another important resource was the DVD collection by Prof. William Kloss on Great artists of the Italian Renaissance - a series of 36 half hour lectures.  Art had always escaped me (call it the Left Brain syndrome!) and I was not sure how much art (paintings, frescoes, statues and sculptures) I would enjoy during this trip.  To my surprise, I was really captivated by those 36 lectures.  Then, as we visited churches, palaces and museums, remembering those lectures made it easier to enjoy that art that much more.  Other great resource is Audio Guides at each site - for a few euros, you can listen to the history/background of key paintings and artifacts as you walk along.  Just be sure to know what each place has to see and how much background information you need to understand it.  For example, in Venice Accademia, we used the audio guide - and it was very useful.  But they also had laminated printed material in each room, in various languages that would have done the job.

I started with Google Maps, and marked all destinations that were interesting according to the travel guides and videos.  (Just how big is Europe compared to the US?  Check it out using this interactive map.)  Using mileage chart, that came to about 12000 miles of driving within Europe and probably would have needed 55 days or more.  I'm sure the cost would be way more than $1500 needed in 1979.  Now, $1500 would probably cover just gas, if we were driving.

Options for traveling in Europe on your own are: planes, trains, automobiles (and ships.) like anywhere else.

• Planes - regular airline fares were ridiculously expensive within Europe - $200 to $900 for each segment for some of our destinations.  Discount airlines (Ryan Air, EasyJet, Wizz Air), on the other hand, were much cheaper - sometime $0 plus taxes totaling $40-$80 per segment, but they didn't necessarily fly from the most convenient airports.  Planes are still much faster than any other options - especially for longer segments.
  - The trip came together only after I discovered the magic key - Milan (MXP) airport.  Two main attractions in Milan, for us, were Last Supper -booked months in advance, and the Cathedral.  Milan entered our plans mainly because discount airlines connect Milan to Catania (CTA) and Budapest (BUD) for only $40 each.
  - For example, BUD to VCE (Venice) direct airline ticket was $500-600, whereas a $40 ticket on Wizz Air from BUD to MXP, plus a train ride from Milan to Venice ($50) did the job.
  - Similarly, going from Paris to Florence is a $500 ticket, or you can fly on EasyJet from Paris (ORY) to Pisa (PSA) for $80 and take a €5 bus from Pisa Airport to Florence SMN (Santa Maria Novella) train terminus - thanks to Ryan Air. 
• Trains - Just about everyone recommends trains as the way to travel in Europe because they are frequent, fast, and most importantly, drop you off in the heart of the town where most of your sightseeing sites are.  Overnight trains also save you on one night's hotel expense.  Eurail Pass (for one or more countries) are available with many choices, but like any other public transportation, it limits the places you can go and the time it takes to get there.
  - For example, Paris to Budapest is a long train journey with change of trains at Munich, and will take you to Munich whether you want to or not.
  - Similarly, overnight train from Budapest to Venice would have worked well on our trip, but the best connection was overnight from Vienna (120 km away from Budapest)  We took trains only within Italy, where purchasing individual tickets -even on the spot- is better than a multi-day train pass.  
  - We pre-booked two trains: Florence to Naples (called The Frecciarossa - this high speed train travels at up to 260 kmph and takes you 460 km in less than 3 hours,) and Milan to Venice (called The Frecciargento travels at up to 155 kmph, and takes you 264 km in 2 1/2 hours.)   If you book far enough in advance, economy tickets are available 50% off.  Sometime, the Second Class economy tickets are sold out, but First/Business Class economy tickets are available - for the same price as Regular Second Class.  For Florence to Naples train, we bought Business Quiet - no phonecalls or loud conversations.  They also served drink and snack, like an airline ($72.)  For Milan to Venice, we got Economy First Class for ($54) - large reclining seats, food for purchase.  
• Automobiles - Having your own vehicle is by far the most flexible way to travel - just like in the U.S..  Roads in Europe are easy to navigate (except in major cities.)  Except UK, you drive on the same (right) side of the road.  Signs, no matter in which language, can be guessed.  With GPS, finding places is not difficult these days.  And if you are looking for places like Mount Etna, or Parthenon, or Eiffel Tower, you don't need GPS anyways - just look out the window.  Most distances in Europe are short - easily drivable.  Cars are small (tiny!  Our rental car was upgraded to four door Fiat 500, with 1.2 liter engine.) which makes it easier to drive and park (if you can handle stick shift!)  Two main problems with driving are gas prices and parking.  Supposedly, crime is another one, but that can be solved with proper insurance.  Gas prices ranged from €1.65-1.85 per liter - roughly $8/gallon.  Parking is expensive and may not even be available in downtown areas.
  - If we were to make this a (entirely) driving trip, France offers an interesting Lease Buyback option.  Peugeot and Renault, for example, let you drive their brand new, fully insured cars with unlimited mileage for less than what rental companies like Hertz would charge for comparable coverage.  In France, taxes on brand new cars are prohibitive so people don't buy new cars.  Car manufacturers, therefore, lease new cars to you - in theory, sell you the car with option to buy back after 3-4 weeks of lease - so it can then be sold as a used car.  Win-Win for everyone thanks to high taxes in France!  Driving is fun outside main cities; you get to see the countryside at your own pace, hotel stays are much cheaper in smaller town, and you have the flexibility of leaving/stopping anytime you want.  You'd spend a lot more time traveling and unless you drive at nights only (without sleeping, of course.), the trip would take longer.  I'm sure it would be a great trip - some day!
• Ships - For coastal cities (which most on our trip were), one other travel option is to take a ferry.  From Rome or Naples, you could take a train, plane or ferry to Sicily, for about the same price.  Overnight train or ferry would save you one night's hotel and not take away any daytime.  To try something different, we decided to take a ferry from Naples to Palermo, Sicily.  Ferry companies (we used Snav) offer high speed vessels that travel from Naples to Palermo overnight for $75 per person, with a regular ship cabin included.  The ferry - actually more like a smaller size cruise ship with the usual facilities - dining hall and casino - leaves each port at 8 PM and reaches the other around 7 am next morning.  Bottom five decks carry vehicles so you have your own transportation at the other end, if you like.  Worked beautifully with our schedule.  We also took a one week cruise from Venice to Greece and Croatia (more about that later.)

In the end, we narrowed our trip down to manageable 3 weeks - Wed Oct 16 - Wed Nov 6.  The first and the last day were travel days to/from Europe.  Of the remaining 20 days for sightseeing - 2 days were in Paris, 1 in Budapest, 4 in Greece, 1 in Croatia, and the rest in Italy.  Of the 17 thousand miles we traveled on this trip, two-thirds were just from and to SFO.  Air travel within Europe was another 2,200 miles, so was the cruise.  The remaining miles were split between trains (600), buses (150) and rental car (300.)  All travel options included!  In addition, we walked for 112 hours (roughly 200-300 miles.)

Hotels: Europe is expensive, in general, for just about everything.  Even more so for travel expenses.  Hotels in particular could put a major dent in your pocket book.  Earlier on, I asked a question on one website about "reasonable accommodations in XXXX city", say Paris, and immediately responses came back "define reasonable - what is reasonable to one person may not be reasonable to another."  Fair enough.  So I said how about "$100 per night" - reasonable enough in most places in US, if all you are looking for is a place only to stay for the night and take a shower.  Breakfast, if included, would be a plus. The responses were pretty negative - "Unless I was willing to go for B&Bs or Hostels, that would not be possible.  Hotels would cost double that!"
- As it turned out, it WAS possible.  Yes, we had a combination of 3-4 star hotels to B&Bs to Hostels, with varied level of quality, service and amenities.  In addition to quoted prices, hotels generally add €2 per person per day tax.  - Here is the list of our hotels just for fun.  (To be fair, going during Shoulder Season helped.  So did getting recommendations from other travelers.  Thanks!)

• Paris (2 nights) - Hotel Esmeralda, named after the Gypsy in Victor Hugo's novel, is a seventeenth century building.  12 of the 16 rooms face Notre Dame and the Seine River.  Only steps away from the river and metro station entrance, you see Notre Dame the moment you step out of the hotel.  Very convenient!  It was fully booked when I emailed them a couple of weeks before the trip, but they offered a small room with a double bed and bathroom - nothing else.  For the convenience of the place, it worked very well for one night. (€80)
  - Maison de l'Abbaye in Antony was our hotel for the second night in Paris.  We had an early morning flight to catch the next day - even before Metro started running - so we stayed here after all day sightseeing in Paris.  We walked 1/4 mile to the train station and got on the first ORY shuttle to the airport 5 miles away.  This hotel is attached to an Abbey and has 22 rooms.  Our room was much more spacious than the previous night, with king size bed and a nice bathroom.  With window facing East, we could see the full moon rise at night.  There was a TV in the room - in most hotels, TVs did not have any English channels.  Most however had internet (WiFi) access, and that was enough for us. (€80)
• Florence (2 nights) - Hotel Aldobrandini, was a 500 year old castle, 10 minutes from the SMN (Santa Maria Novella) train station and across the street from the Medici Chapel.  Somebody had to point the hotel to us, because it didn't look like one (it looked like a castle.)  You press the button on the side of the door, and the reception remotely unlocks the door.  When the 20 foot tall door opens, you walk 25-30 steps to an iron gate and then it opens.  You can either take steps or the elevator to First Floor (Second Floor in the U.S.) - to the lobby.  After registering, the receptionist gives you the room key (which is attached to a large piece of metal/wood so you wouldn't accidentally walk away with it.  In most hotels, you drop the key with Reception every time you leave - so you don't have to carry it around.)  The rooms are one level up - on the second floor, which you get to via a spiral staircase.  No kidding.  I don't know how people take their larger bags with them.  Any case, the room (#12) was spacious with king size bed and nice bathroom.  (€150 for two nights)
• Pompeii (2 nights) -  Easy Bed Hostel was recommended by someone on Rick Steves Travel Helpline and I am glad that they did.  I didn't really want to stay in Naples itself.  Sorrento was recommended as a nice place to stay, and convenient for a trip to Amalfi Coast.  Pompeii is half way between the two - and adjacent to the Pompeii Scavi/Excavations.  It also had hourly buses to Mount Vesuvius, one of the top attractions.  Breakfast (Juice and donuts/croissants/pastry) was included.  What's more, the owner and his family also cooked multi-course dinner for all guests (€15 per person.)  Very convenient in that small town where nothing else was around.  Because the hostel rooms in his house were full, we were put up in the hotel room next door, also owned by the same owner. Hotel room for the price of a hostel. (€92 for two nights)
• Nicolasi/Mount Etna (1 night) -  Hotel Corsaro was also an accidental find.  I was recommended Taormina, 30 km northeast of Etna - right on the coast, with great views.  They also recommended a very highly rated hotel in Taormina - which I booked right away.  Later, I found out that Taormina is too touristy - very crowded even in October, and getting around would cost us a fortune.
  - For mere €340, one travel company offered to pick me up in Palermo, make a couple of sightseeing stops (Agrigento and Piazza Armerina, for example) and drop us off at a Taormina hotel.  Next day, for another €300, they would take me around Mount Etna up to 1900m and for wine tasting.  Going up further on Mount Etna would be extra.  And the following day, for mere €80 per person, shuttle me to Catania Airport (CTA) 50 km away.  We thought we could do better on our own - and did.  We booked a rental car through Auto Europe (actually, with Hertz) - fully insured for $150 for 3 days (2 day rental would have been $200 - don't ask!)  Filling up gas at the end was €50 - and that gave us all the flexibility we wanted.
  - Any case, while searching for a better place to stay on booking.com, I noticed one hotel way up on Mount Etna all by itself.  For the same price (€80) as Taormina, we could stay at Hotel Corsaro - at an altitude of 2000 meters - 2/3 of the way up on Mount Etna itself, only 300 meters from the cable way to the top, free Wi-Fi and free parking.  Breakfast included, and discounts for excursions to top craters, cable car.  As mountain climbers know, skies are generally clear in the morning.  So the sooner you get there, the better.  Even better, if you get there the previous night.  Your body has more time to adjust to higher altitude, and you are ready for action the next morning. (If we didn't have an early morning flight to catch from CTA on Oct 26, we would certainly have been tempted to stay there another night.  It would have been awesome (and dangerous) to have experienced Mount Etna erupt some time that morning.  Hmmm!) (€80)
• Catania (1 night) -  Agora Hostel was our stop for the second night - only 15 minutes away from the airport where we had an early morning flight to Milan the next day.  The place was in the middle of the action - 5 minutes from the town center, past the local market.  It was a true hostel (though age did not matter.) with rooms randomly laid out on upper floors.  Ground floor was the lobby, TV room and kitchenette.  Free parking was available in front of the hostel, because no one else had a car to park.  Our room Junior was in the attic with high cathedral ceiling, a queen plus a  twin bed, room heating/cooling unit - which we did not need, private bathroom with shower where half the door was missing.  Towels rented for €2.  My first impression wasn't positive at all.  According to the front desk, the best restaurant was on the premises.  Hostel had coupons for happy hour drinks - 2 beers for €5, 2 drinks for €7, and 3 course dinner for €12.  The restaurant was practically empty until 8:30 PM, but the later it got, the busier it got.  It was Friday night and we were told that dinner goes on until 2 am.  Thankfully our room was away from this action/noise.  And the food was good too. (€49)
• Milan (1 night) -  Hotel Sicilia was reserved for us instead of the B&B we initially signed up for (The B&B was closer to the Milan Central Railway Station, but had plumbing problems - hence the switch.)  Luckily, Tram 5 directly took us there, and back early next morning. (€54)
• Budapest (1 night) -  Mirage Fashion Hotel, a 4-star hotel near Heroes' Square was top notch. After we made the non-refundable reservation, we realized that it was far enough away from downtown to get airport shuttles. Although it was near a metro station, metro did not start early enough to get to the airport for our 6 am flight. Hotel however had shuttles that would take us to the airport on time. Problem solved. Other than being away from downtown, the hotel was in a great location. The room was fantastic, with a view of Heroes's Square from the room. (€53)
• Venice (2 nights) -  Hotel Campiello was only steps away from water, near St Mark's Square where the main action is.  This 16th century convent now converted to a 3-star hotel with queen size bed and nice bathroom.  Sumptuous breakfast included. (€150 for two nights)

For more, see Tidbits.

Travelogue

Highlights for each day.  These days, just Google "Top 10 attractions in, say, Paris" and the must-see places to visit pop up - with all their details/photos to boot.  We usually visited top 7-8 of those that interested us most.  Click either date or city name for links to photos for that day.   Some museums and churches do not permit photography inside, but for those, there is YouTube. 

• Wed Oct 16 - We were scheduled to leave SFO at 2:45 PM - an 11 hour non-stop flight to Paris (CDG)  Having traveled lots of miles in 2012, I had Premier Access on United.  What does that mean? One free checked bag, early boarding, and Economy Plus seats if available.  Because rest of our trip was backpacking or on European discount airlines, we had no check in bags, no laptop, no hiking gear.  Travel light.  Economy Plus (extra legroom) wasn't available on this flight, and early boarding only meant waiting INSIDE the plane instead of in the line outside.  Yeah!
  
  - We arrived at the gate in SFO around 1 PM when the previous flight was just departing.  So, I was the first in line for our flight.  The crew also arrived shortly, but before our aircraft did.  A flight attendant sat next to me, and was reading a Paris guidebook.  This was her third trip to Paris and she wanted to see the Louvre this time.  We began chatting - others chimed in with their suggestions on where to go and what to see.  I got some good tips out of it.  Eventually, our aircraft arrived and we left for Paris.
  
  - Service on United was very good.  The usual beverages, then dinner, later ice cream, and light breakfast before landing.  Even the regular seats were comfortable.  Cabin configuration was 2+4+2 - we had adjacent window and isle seats.  With personal TVs, it is easy to manage time - including nap time.  Initially, the TV system was acting up, but once re-booted, we had entertainment for the rest of the flight..
• Thu Oct 17 - On a long flight, it is easy to make up time.  We arrived in Paris right on time - 10:45 am the next day.  Paris CDG airport is huge.  Each Terminal is separate with driverless shuttles connecting to the rest of the airport.  As soon as we got inside the terminal, we were mixed with other arriving and departing passengers as if this was a domestic terminal.  After walking for what seemed like a mile, we suddenly stopped.  There was immigration after all.  EU passengers on the left side, who just had to show their ID cards and that was it; and the rest on the right side.  There were 30-40 people ahead of us, and lots more arrived after us.  The line was stopped for some time.  I could see only a couple of immigration counters.  I wondered how long it was going to take to get through this.  Suddenly, the line moved forward quite a bit.  Once EU passengers were cleared, US and Canadian citizens ONLY were asked to use the EU lines.  Within minutes, it was our turn.  Immigration officers barely looked at the passports, stamped and handed them back to us.  No questions asked.  (US Passport has its benefits, after all!)
  
  - Beyond Immigration, a shuttle took us to Terminal 3, and then we walked over to RER B (express train to Paris.) train terminal.  We were warned that U.S. credit cards with magnetic strip may not work in automated ticket machines - they only take smart chips.  True enough.  After trying one machine, we stood in line and purchased tickets at the manned ticket booth.  (There, U.S. credit cards worked just fine.  Most handheld devices used in restaurants, hotels and trains also still use swipe cards.)  One way ticket to Paris was €9.50.  We also purchased individual metro tickets - a pack of 10 tickets for €13.50 (normally, €2 each)  Even though we didn't use them all, it was worth the convenience.  (And for the unused cards, there is the Craigslist.)  More on that later.- RER B train stops at St Michele -Notre Dame station.  Step out from the underground station, and Notre Dame is right in front of you.  Several tour buses had just arrived and hoards of tourists were marching towards the Notre Dame.  We first had to find our hotel across the street, drop off our bags and find an ATM to get some Euros.
  
  - Hotel Esmeralda was just a short block away - less than 100 meters.  Our room, as we knew beforehand, was a small room - just a double bed and a bathroom.  Nothing else.  Internet worked only in the lobby - barely.  The room wasn't ready, so we dropped off our bags in the lobby, which was already full with bags and suitcases of other incoming guests like us.  Front desk clerk spoke English well and answered all our questions.  In Europe, "Walking Tours" are popular.  We checked out the flyer for Paris, and decided to take one tour next day.
  
  - Notre Dame is on an island on Seine River.  The river is pretty well contained within the city, and a lot of traffic - predominantly tourist boats, but also cargo vessels - moves through it.  Bridges cross the river every so often - practically at every major street.  RER C  train runs parallel to Seine on the South side; whereas Metro lines crisscross the city. Very easy to navigate once you get a hang of it.  Each time you enter a station, you insert your metro ticket - a 1" X 2" thick piece of paper - which gets stamped and pops out, and then glass doors open.  If you transfer from one line to another, the same ticket is supposed to work within certain time limit.  In reality, far too many times, the doors won't open even with a valid ticket.  Then people just forced the doors open and moved on.  That happened to us a couple of times in two days.  Some system!
  
  - Back to sightseeing.  First we visited Notre Dame - first of the many famous European churches we will visit in the next three weeks.  Typically, most churches/ basilicas/ cathedrals/ duomos are open to anyone - most of the time, free of charge.  Some charge €2-3 if they have some famous art, like the Frari in Venice.  Others are dark inside, and you/someone needs to feed some coins, usually 50 cents, for flood lights to come on for a specific painting, or part of the church.  Notre Dame is completely free.  The building architecture is very interesting - especially from different vantage points and under different lighting situations.  There were bleachers right in front of the main entrance.  Several visitors were sitting there -resting, eating, admiring the views and taking pictures.  There was only a short line to enter the church.
  - Notre Dame is impressive from inside as well.  Usually, you enter from the right entrance, walk towards the back, behind the altar, around to the other side and exit (a backward U.)  Most people inside are tourists, busy taking pictures.  However, some are there to pray - front rows are usually blocked off for them.  Tourists are still able to go close enough to view the altar piece as well as frescoes on the dome ceilings.  Best view is usually from the very last row near the entrance.  From there, you can take in the entire view, the open space, columns and statues on the sides, paintings/frescoes, the dome/cathedral, and stained glass windows all around. - Once outside, we circled the Notre Dame, through the park behind and back to the south bank of Seine.

Pieta at Notre Dame

- BNP Paribas has a reciprocal agreement with Bank of America - customers pay no fees to use each other's ATMs.  And you get the official foreign exchange rate.  Until we knew what BNP Paribas signs look like, it was like finding a needle in the haystack.  The closest branch we walked to was closed for renovation.  The next one was near St Michele station three blocks away, where roads go in five different directions.  Finally, we found the bank, ATM card worked (that amazes me every time!  I wonder if they actually authenticate pin/passwords or you, before giving out money.  Otherwise, anyone could get to my account.  Any case, we got the money!  P.S.  We had notified in advance our bank and credit card companies of our dates of overseas travel and countries we were visiting.  Otherwise, they would just block our card the very first time we used.  Earlier, back in the U.S., I was booking airlines/hotels in various cities and after the second reservation, they had blocked my card.)  Daily maximum withdrawal limit was $1500 - we had no idea how much cash we would need each day, or where they would accept only cash, not credit.  Our plan of course was to use credit cards wherever possible.  Cash in local currency is needed for local transportation, entry fees for some attractions, and at smaller restaurants.  Everyplace else, Plastic rules! 

- Walking further West, we crossed Pont Neuf (New Bridge), past the statue of Henry IV, towards the Louvre.  
- All guidebooks advise you NOT to go to the main entrance of Louvre (the glass pyramid shown here.) because that's where everyone goes, and the lines could be long.  Instead, one of the connecting underground metro stations has an entrance to the museum without any lines.  Well, we found "Louvre - Rivoli," station, but that wasn't it.  "Palais Royal - Musee du Louvre" was the correct one, but that was too far out of the way for us.  Louvre, a giant palace, was right in front of us, so we just walked to it.  It was late in the afternoon (Louvre is open late - until 7 PM - on Thursdays), and apparently all tourist buses had come and gone.  There was no line at the Pyramid entrance.  Once past the security, you take escalator down one level, where you purchase tickets and enter the museum.  Credit card worked at the kiosk here, and we got our tickets. 

- Louvre is the world's largest museum.  This converted castle is so huge that even with many sections closed that day, there was plenty for us to see.  Museum map highlights six things on each floor - Ground Floor (Venus de Milo, Psyche and Cupid, Captive by Michaelangelo, and Ramses II), First Floor (Napoleon, Mona Lisa, Wedding Feast a.k.a. Last Supper), and so on.  Depending on the amount of time and energy you have, plan your way around.  We selected a route for each floor and viewed everything along the way.  Easiest way is to look for tour groups.  Wherever tour guides stop is usually important.  At times, you can eavesdrop and learn more about that statue/painting.  Personally, I liked marble statues - it is amazing to watch the intricate details in facial expressions, the drapery, and more.  You just have to experience it in person.  For now, here are a couple of YouTube links for your viewing pleasure.  I liked Psyche and Cupid (above) the most.

Psyche and Cupid

- I was advised to be disappointed by Mona Lisa - it is after all a small painting compared to all others around in that hall.  We were able to get so close to it, that it looked much larger than I expected.  Having seen it in so many photos and movies, it didn't look any different in person.  Still not sure if she is smiling!

- Some paintings in Louvre are so large and have so much intricate detail that you can't feel anything but an awe.

- At the underground level, you walk around the original walls and buttresses of the old castle above.  This floor has Egyptian art and artifacts.  Nothing impressive.

- On the way out of Louvre, we found the underground metro station mentioned earlier, as well as the inverted glass pyramid.  It was late enough in the day (per our body clock - early morning Pacific Time), so we decided to return to the hotel, have dinner and some rest, before visiting Eiffel Tower ("Tour Eiffel") at dusk.  Just outside St Michele station, there were plenty of restaurants.  It was barely 5 PM - way before Parisians have dinner - so restaurants were practically empty.  We had a nice 3 course dinner - the courses are small and they don't bring the next course until you ask - right on the main square near St Michele.  (Check!)

- We returned to the hotel, checked in to our room, and relaxed a bit.  We were afraid that if we fell asleep, that would be it for the day.  We walked to a different train station to catch Line 10 and then switched to Line 6, where we got off above ground near Eiffel Tower.  (RER C express train would have taken us directly to Eiffel Tower, but we realized it later and took it on our return trip.)  It was easy to figure out which way Eiffel Tower was.  It was still early - plenty of daylight - for us to walk around the Tower.  There were lifts - one to take you from the base, along the slanted legs of the Tower, up to the platform; and second one to the top.  You could also walk up part of the way if you liked.  There were long lines for the lifts, and we were in no mood to walk up hundreds of steps - and paying for it!  (Different story if it were a mountain!)  Full moon started rising around sunset.  After taking some wonderful pictures right at the base of the Tower, we crossed Seine (to the north) and had a much better view of the entire tower.  We walked around by the river waiting for it to get dark.  Every hour on the hour, the Tower puts on a different show.  In addition to its regular lighting, hundreds of strobe lights flicker randomly on the entire tower - as we captured in the photo here.

- With today's goals accomplished, Notre Dame, Louvre and Eiffel Tower (Most importantly, to stay up until night, so we could get over our jet lag quickly.), we returned to the hotel by taking RER C express train.  Showered, and slept around 9:30 PM.

• Fri Oct 18 - I woke up at 3 am and couldn't go back to sleep.  Checked my watch again at 4 am, then 5 am, then ... when I woke up next, it was 9 am.  I thought for sure my clock switched from Pacific Time to East Coast time, and it was only 6 am.  It wasn't.  Jet lag caught up to us.  I was planning to walk around Notre Dame to watch the sunrise.  Not today!
  
  - No harm done.  Our first stop was d'Orsay Museum (watch the expressions on the boy's face at 13:46), and it didn't open until 9:30 am anyways.  We got ready, checked out of the room and left our bags at the Reception.  We had an early morning flight to catch the next day, so we booked a hotel in Antony, near ORY airport, for tonight.
  
  - We walked to d'Orsay, about a mile away.  The Museum was just opening, and there was no line to enter.  (There were hundreds of people waiting when we came out around 12:30 PM)  This Museum has more modern art compared to the Louvre - the largest collection of impressionist and post-impressionist masterpieces in the world, by painters including Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir, Cézanne, Seurat, Sisley, Gauguin and Van Gogh.  It is compact compared to Louvre and more well laid out.  Three hours gave us plenty of time to view the entire museum at leisure.
  
  - Once outside, just across the Seine, was Louvre and Tuileries Garden.  We walked west through the garden to Place de la Concorde.  From here, we could see Avenue des Champs-Élysées and Arc de Triomphe ahead.  Best time to walk there is at night, but we couldn't do that tonight so we moved on.  - We had planned to take the 2:30 walking tour to Sacré-Cœur (Sacred Heart) Basilica at the top of Montmartre - the highest point (130 m) in Paris.  We were to meet at Abbesses Metro station.  This station is way deep underground, and we were advised to take the elevator up.  Of course, it wasn't working at that time, so we just walked up those 100-150 steps.  We were still at the foothills of Montmartre, and the walking tour was to take us to the top.  We were early, so we had a leisurely lunch nearby.  It is amazing to see how people can have leisurely meals - lunches or dinners - with friends and family members joining in, wine flowing freely, followed by courses of meals, day after day.  The only people rushed in the restaurants were the servers.
  - By 2:30, about 30-40 people - mostly from the U.S., had gathered for the tour.  The guide, also from the U.S., collected €12 (€10 for the tour, plus tax.) and the tour started.  Walking tours are generally free - you tip at the end as you please.  The name - Mount Mars or Mercury became Mount Martyr (Montmartre.)  Primarily known for the white-domed Basilica of the Sacré Cœur on its summit, it boasts upscale homes, and nightclub district. Many artists had studios or worked around the community of Montmartre such as Salvador Dalí, Amedeo Modigliani, Claude Monet, Piet Mondrian, Pablo Picasso and Vincent van Gogh.  Montmartre is also the setting for several hit films. Other claim to fame was "Plaster of Paris," a quick setting gypsum, which was used as a fire retardant in Paris in the 18th century.  After the 1666 fire that raged across London destroying many parts of it, the king of France ordered that all walls made of wood in Paris be immediately covered with the plaster, as a protection against such fires. This resulted in large-scale mining of gypsum which was available around Paris in huge quantities.  Since homes are now built on top of those old quarries, they are susceptible to sinkholes.  Cobblestone roads wind up to the top passing by the remaining two windmills, a lone winery and end up at the Basilica.  It has a long history and has witnessed the struggles of Paris and Parisians over the centuries.  Very popular with tourists, and therefore, with souvenir peddlers and con artists.  Walking tours do provide you with a glimpse of an area or neighborhood that you will not otherwise get.
  - Steps in front of the Basilica bring you straight down the hill and connect you to one of two metro stations nearby.  We took Line 4 back to our hotel, picked up our bags and headed back to the train station to catch RER-B train going South to Antony.  Once again, our tickets didn't work - so like other locals, we pushed the doors open and walked on.  Even when exiting, the doors were slow to close so more than one person could exit.  No one seemed to care.
  
  - About one hour train ride brought us to Antony train station.  Our hotel for tonight, Maison Abbaye, an actual Abbey, was only a couple blocks away to the west (right.)  By the time we reached there, the office was about to close (6 PM.)  If it was closed, room keys would have been left on a table at the entrance.  Only because we were leaving early next morning, we paid for the room in advance.  Taxi to the airport was €40 and had to be booked in advance.  We decided to take our chance and take the airport shuttle (train) instead.  This highly rated hotel, attached to an Abbey, had excellent facilities.  Our room 206 was at least twice as large as the one previous night with large, modern bathroom.  Very convenient.  Full Moon was shining through our East facing window.  We had done plenty of walking for the day, and had to get up early tomorrow.  And of course, we had not given jet lag much of a chance.  We had a nice peaceful sleep.

Map of Cinque Terre (five lands)

• Sat Oct 19 - Woke up at 5 am to catch the first airport shuttle from Antony train station at 6 am.  The ticket office was closed, but thankfully, the ticket machine accepted our credit card - ticket  €8.70 per person for a 10 minute ride.  We went down to the train platform, which was also closed.  A few other passengers were waiting, and more came in after us.  Exactly at 6 am, the automatic doors opened, and driver-less automated train arrived at the platform.  This shuttle train makes only two stops - ORY Ouest (West) and ORY Sud (South) - two minutes apart.  This airport is much smaller than CDG.  Within minutes, we were at our gate.
  
  - The 7:05 am flight to Pisa (PSA) was full.  While waiting to board, gate agents were walking around and making passengers check in bags that looked too big to fit in the overhead bins.  My backpack was just a bit too long (the other two dimensions were fine.), so I had to check it in.  Discount airlines make it painful for you to check bags - especially at the gate ( €50.)  I could have checked it in earlier at regular baggage check in for  €30, OR if I had paid online, only for  €14.  Lesson learned!
  - Distances within Europe are short - so like Southwest Airlines, most flights are 1 1/2 - 2 hours long.  We arrived at Pisa, another small airport.  The plane was parked some distance away, and we walked to the terminal.  While I waited for my bag to arrive, Kedar went to check train connections to Cinque Terre (Italian Riviera.)  Now that we were in Italy - and will be here for most of the trip - he also purchased a local SIM card.  For  €15, we had a working phone with 200 minutes of phone calls and more importantly, 1 GB data plan.  We now had access to local maps/GPS and internet access to check our emails any time.
  
  - Today was really a jam packed day, with too many logistical loose ends.  We wanted to visit Pisa's famous Leaning Tower, take a train to La Spezia 80 km north and change to local trains to Cinque Terre to hike to Vernazza 30 km further north.  Return back to Pisa, pick up our bags and then take another train to Florence for the night - another 80 km away.  I really wasn't sure how it was all going to work out.  But, it did.  Though first we had to change our plans completely.
  
  - At the airport, we found out that, thanks to Ryan Air, shuttle buses leave for Florence every hour, for only  €5.  So plan to take train from Pisa to Florence was dropped - one loose end gone.  Instead, we decided to leave our bags at the airport at Left Luggage ( €7 each) - so we could move around freely the whole day.  Left Luggage closed at 8 PM, so that was our deadline.  After security screening of bags using airport scanners, they accepted our bags.  City bus right outside would take us to the train station about 1 km away and beyond to the city attractions (2-3 km beyond) - all for €1.10.  We found someone on the bus to let us know where to get off for the Leaning Tower - always a fun experience when you don't speak the language and they don't call it the "Leaning Tower."
  
  

  

  Leaning Tower of Pisa

  - We all learned in grade school, about the Leaning Tower of Pisa and Galileo's famous experiment to prove that gravity works the same on a feather or a rock.  (Pisa airport is named after Galileo.)  Historians doubt that Galileo actually ever conducted the said experiment at all.  It sure makes a great story, though.  Any case, the Baptistry, the Duomo and the Leaning Tower are all in one big Piazza - one €18 ticket gets you in to all three.  Electronic display shows times for Tower tours - every 15 minutes - and how many tickets are left for each.  We got the last two tickets for the very next tour (10:45 am.)  After checking in my backpack, we walked to the tower.  By the time we finished taking pictures, they let us in.  The tower is hollow inside and you can see all the way to the top.  There is one large circular bench inside - spacious enough for one tour group to sit around.  Sitting however is not comfortable because the tower is leaning and so is the floor.  We were narrated the history of the tower, and given assurance that with the latest reinforcements, the tower is now safe enough to climb to the top - at least for the next two hundred years.  (If they wanted to, they could actually have straightened the tower.  Would anyone bother to go there then?  Hmmm!) 
• 
  - After the previous group exited, we climbed up 293 steps to the landing one level below the very top.  From this level, you have a nice view of the Duomo/Baptistry on one side, and the City all around.  We were then allowed to climb up the last flight to the top where the bells are.  The tower itself is much larger than I had imagined.  It is also very well maintained and is an impressive structure.  Later, we visited the Duomo and the Baptistry, and then walked back to the train station about a mile away - just past the Arno River.  We were looking for a place to eat before getting on the train to La Spezia.  It was just before Noon, and none of the places were yet open for lunch.  Finally, we found one near the train station.  While waiting for our meal, we tried to purchase train tickets online, but it wasn't showing all the trains.  We walked to the train station.  The line wasn't long, but waiting in line is never pleasant for me.  By the time we got to the ticket window, 12:30 train had already left, but 12:52 super fast train was next.  We purchased  €25.40 ticket for that train to La Spezia and on to Cinque Terre, as well as  the return tickets on a regular train for  €17.20.  But in a hurry, the clerk forgot to give us one of the return tickets.  It was almost 12:52 by the time we reached the platform.  The train was late, but we didn't know that.  After a few minutes, a station attendant came looking for us to give us the missing ticket.
  
  - All guidebooks and blogs warn you about validating train tickets.  In Italy, tickets MUST BE validated (date stamped) at the platform before you board the train.  The tickets are good for two months, but only for single use.  If you are caught with a NON validated ticket, train ticket checkers (TC) take no mercy -  €50 fine per ticket.  Having paid €50 for check in baggage just this morning, I was in no mood to pay any more fines.  And then it happened - For more, see Tidbits.   
  

  

  Vernazza, Cinque Terre
  

  
  

  
  - Eventually, we got on the first Superfast train which dropped us off at La Spezia station.  The next train to Cinque Terre was about to leave, so we ran and got on.  Part of Italian Riviera, between Genoa and Pisa, is the rugged national park that protects these Cinque (five) Terre (lands/towns) - with houses built on cliffs and slopes, wineries and great ocean views.  Starting from South, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso towns are connected by road as well as by frequent train service, but the best way is to hike from one end to the other (and beyond to Portofino.)  The entire hike takes about 7 hours.  The trails between Riomaggiore to Corniglia were still closed since 2011 landslides, so we got off the train at Corniglia and hiked up to Vernazza, (and if possible, on to Monterosso beach to watch the sunset.)
  
  - At Corniglia station, a lot of tourists got off and disappeared (to their hotels, I suppose)  We stopped at the tourist office, purchased a Cinque Terre day pass for €7, and asked for directions.  We were told that a shuttle, just up one level outside the station, would take us to the top of the hill where Corniglia town and the starting point of the trail was.  The shuttle had just left, so we followed other hikers who were walking parallel to the train tracks.  Right in front, we saw a zigzag of 300+ steps to the town above.  A single road passes through the town, and just beyond is the start of the trail.  There, a non-uniformed person checked our tickets and pointed to the trail.  From here on out, it is just you and the nature for the next couple of hours.  From time to time, you passed through trees and occasional homes, but otherwise, you have the calm ocean reflecting the sun and beautiful blue sky above.  The temperature was only in the 70s, but when there was no breeze, it felt hot.  Locals had created terraces to plant their trees - mainly grapes and olives.  As we neared Vernazza, we met hikers going in the opposite direction sweating from their steep climb up.  We were now on the downhill portion, which ends right at the train station.  Towns are becoming popular with hikers, and have sufficient stores and restaurants to satisfy their needs.  We had run out of water a long time ago.  So we made a bee-line to the first store and only after finishing up the bottles, could think about what to do next.  It was too late to hike another couple of hours to Monterosso and then return to Pisa before 8 PM.  Therefore, we decided to take the train to Monterosso, only if that train came first.  Luckily, it didn't, so we returned to La Spezia and caught the last train of the day to Pisa (Saturday schedule.)  We were fairly tired after a long day and hikes, and were falling asleep on the train.  The train was continuing beyond Pisa - so we didn't want to miss our stop.  At Pisa, we looked for the airport shuttle train (we already had the train tickets.), but the next train was half an hour later.  We walked out of the train station, and took the city bus back to the airport.  After picking up our bags, we got on a €5 bus to Florence.  It was 7:45 PM.  We would be in Florence in about an hour.
  
  - Bus dropped us right outside Santa Maria Novella (SMN) train station at Florence (Firenza).  Five roads converged at the station.  Once we figured out the road we needed to take, it was only 10 minutes to our hotel.  The room was just as nice and comfortable as the previous night's in Antony.  It didn't take us long to fall asleep.  It had been a long busy day.

• Sun Oct 20 - Another gorgeous day in store for us.  After the grueling agenda of past three days, sightseeing Florence was going to be relatively easy I hoped.  Although we walked just as much today, much of it was on level ground.  After breakfast of hot chocolate, juice and croissant, we left the hotel.  (Hot Chocolate is everywhere in Europe - even from dispensing machines.  They use too much powder - so it is very thick and too sweet.  As long as you like it that way.)   
  
  - Our first stop, Medici Chapel, was just across from our hotel.  This partially completed chapel still has some amazing paintings. (€6)  Past the Chapel and around the other corner to the right was the famous ‎Il Duomo, the original one.  This was the largest masonry dome of its kind back then, so "Duomo" only meant this dome in Florence.  Now, it seems, every city map will show a Duomo. 
  
  - Being Sunday, the chapel was closed for tourists until 1:30 PM., but all other surrounding things were open.  Tourist crowds were yet to gather, so no wait or any lines.  First up was the bell tower.  €10 ticket covered the tower, cathedral (Basilica of Santa Maria del Fiore), baptistry (Baptistry of St. John), and the museum.  As you climb up its 414 steps, the bell tower shows Florence from different vantage points.  At the first level, I didn't even notice that there was a way to go further up until I noticed someone coming out from one concealed corner.  The same thing happened at every level until the top.
  
  - In front of the Duomo and the Tower, is the Baptistery.  This octagonal building with domed roof is famous for its doors by Ghiberti.  One set still hangs at the Baptistry - facing the cathedral.  3-D perspectives on each panel are superb.  Another set of doors, called the Gates of Paradise, are in glass encased protective environment inside the museum (Museo dell'Opera del Duomo) behind the Duomo.  Second attraction in the museum is The Deposition - Michaelangelo's self portrait in the Florentine Pieta.
  
  - Next stop - Accademia, about quarter mile north of the Duomo.  At the entrance, there were two lines - one without reservations and another with.  We tried to purchase tickets online, but they had to be purchased at least one day in advance.  So after waiting for 45 minutes, we went inside - to see Michangelo's David.  This is the original masterpiece.  A copy stands in Piazza della Signoria, where the original stood for 300 years outside Palazzo Vecchio, half a mile south from here, near the river.
  
  - From the Bell Tower, we had seen Basilica of Santa Croce.  After Accademia, we decided to take a detour, walking through narrow alleyways of Florence to the Basilica and then on to Palazzo Vecchio.  This Basilica was also closed for tourists until 2 PM.  We grabbed a quick lunch (Sandwich €6) before checking out the situation at Uffizi Gallery.  Here too, there were two lines.  The walk in line (€11) was much longer here than at Accademia earlier, but the second line ((€15) for advanced ticket for 14:45 took only a few minutes.  That also gave us plenty of time to walk around Piazza della Signoria.  To the left is Loggia dei Lanzi with many famous statues under one roof.  Adjacent to it is the Palazzo Vecchio (Old Palace) with copy of David's statue in front, and fountains beyond.  At 1:30, we walked back to the Duomo.  Tourists were now allowed in.  The line was long, but it was moving quickly.  Within minutes, we were inside.  A simple architecture, stained glass windows and frescoed dome - as usual. 
  
  - After that, it was time to get back to ‎Uffizi Gallery.  We were let in right on time - the only delay being at the security.  People with reservation go in first and then those waiting in line.  Once past security, you walk straight up two floors, where most of the famous art is.  You then work your way back down to ground floor to exit.
  
  - Restrooms seem to be an afterthought in these ancient buildings and palaces, although they have been modernized for other creature comforts - lighting, air conditioning, security, etc.  Restrooms can be inaccessible for handicapped.  Just before exiting the Gallery, I saw signs for Toilets.  Behind the security, you walk through a couple of rooms before reaching a metal staircase with signs pointing down.  At the lower level, you walk several hundred steps before the restrooms finally appear.  Men and Women are next to each other, as usual, with both doors open.  Same situation in other museums as well.
  
  - Behind Uffizi Gallery, right by Arno river, is Galileo Museum.  Galileo's giant sundial points the way.  We wanted to cross the famous Ponte Vecchio (old bridge), with views of other bridges on Arno, and then on to Pitti Palace half a mile away.  By the time we reached, Pitii Palace was closed.  We had had our share of Florentine art for the day anyways.  One more possible place to visit was Piazzale Michaelangelo, half a mile further east.  But it was getting late and we still had a few more things to do.   
  
  - Florence has so many museums - their All Museum Pass is €72.  Ouch!  Here is somebody's YouTube version for a sneak peek.
  
  - We walked back to our hotel, checked TripAdvisor's recommended restaurants for a nice sit down dinner - one happened to be just around the corner.  It was a bit early for dinner so the restaurant was fairly empty.  Travel guides advise that for best food, find one that has no American tourists, don't accept credit cards, have a one page, handwritten menu in local language.  We didn't see any Americans when we went in, but in a few minutes, a couple came in and sat at the next table - from Livermore, California, about 30 miles away from us!
  
  - After dinner, the last item on our list was to check out the Duomo to take night pictures.  That entire area is very well lit.  There were a few tourists milling around.  It was relatively quiet.  The Duomo didn't look any more spectacular than during the day.  We returned to our hotel.
  
  - Someone had mentioned that there was a 90% chance of rain in Florence the next day.  They had just arrived from Naples (where we will be going tomorrow) and it had rained there the past few days.  Let's see how lucky we are with the weather!

Duomo, Florence

• Mon Oct 21 - Woke up at 4 am by the sounds of thunderstorm, howling winds and rain pounding on our windows.  It was only a 10 minute walk from our hotel to the train station, but if it was raining like this, we would be soaked within seconds.  We had no Plan B.
  
  - By the time we got up at 6:30 am, though, rains had subsided down to a drizzle.  Breakfast normally starts at 8 am, but the nice front desk attendant served us earlier.  After a quick breakfast, we left the hotel.  The rain wasn't too bad, and started again shortly after we reached the station.
  
  - Our high speed train, Frecciarossa 9505 coming from Milan (Milano) would zip us to Naples (Napoli) 475 km away in about 3 hours - traveling at top speed of 266 kmph, with only one stop in Rome (Roma.)  The train wasn't listed when we reached the station, but it arrived shortly, and left on time.  It was raining for the first hour or so, and skies were completely clear by the time we reached Naples.  We had "Business Quiet" (no cellphones and only low voice chats permitted.) reservations.  They served drinks, snacks and newspaper - just like on an airplane - once after we left Florence, and again after Rome.
  
  - Train reached Rome only 9 minutes late.  Although we were very close to Rome's main attractions, none were visible from the train.  We reached Naples at 11:07 am, 12 minutes late.  We had plenty of time for sightseeing.  Mount Vesuvius is a massive volcano, less than 10 miles away, and it loomed large on the Eastern skyline of Naples.  It was clearly visible from the train, and we hoped it will remain so when we get there later in the day.
  
  - As we were warned, Naples is chaotic - everywhere.  We were going to return to Naples two days later for sightseeing, and then to catch a ferry to Palermo, Sicily that night.  Before leaving Naples train station today, I was hoping to get the lay of the land, a map, understand local transportation to attractions, as well as to the Ferry Terminal.  No such luck - we couldn't even find the Tourist Information Center, which was right around the corner.  We moved on.
  
  - A private railway Circumvesuviana to Pompei was just outside Naples Central (Napoli Centrale) station, one level below.  A €2.90 ticket would take us there.  But there was a catch - there were two Pompei stations - one is the new town Pompei, the other Pompei Scavi (excavations, as we found out later.  Also called Villa dei Misteri.)  We took the first train that came along - which happened to be Green Line that goes to new Pompeii.  We realized our mistake as soon as the train left the previous station, so we got off at the next stop, turned around back to Torre A.C. station and waited for the Blue Line train.  During this half an hour wait, we ran in to an Irish couple who also made the same mistake.  They were about to relocate to the U.S., so we found plenty of things to talk about.  Eventually, the next Blue Line train arrived and we were at Pompei Scavi station within minutes.  Right outside the station were hourly buses lined up to go to Mount Vesuvius.  A hundred yards to the right was the entrance to Pompei's famous ruins.
  
  - We wanted to go to the hotel first, drop off our bags, and then plan the rest of the day.  Following directions to our hotel, we went uphill about half a km and then turned left.  Just before the railroad crossing, on the right, was a faded sign for our B&B.  We surely would have missed it if it was dark.  Guiseppe, a nice young man, invited us in to his large single story home.  In addition to his home, he has several guest rooms - for about 20-25 people, dining tables set under a canopy, and a swimming pool next to it.  He had us sit down, brought in red-colored orange juice, and answered all our questions.  Because his B&B was full, he accommodated us in the adjacent hotel "Hotel Via Diomede," owned by the same family.
  
  - After freshening up, we returned to the train station.  Visiting Mount Vesuvius was on top of my list for Naples.  It is about 9 kilometers east of Naples and a short distance from the shore. Now only 4200 ft tall at the rim, it once was part of a much larger volcano Monte Somma.  Mount Vesuvius is best known for its eruption in AD 79 that led to the burying and destruction of then Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum.  The wind direction determined the fate of these two cities that day.  Pompeii, due South, was closest to Vesuvius, so its citizens did not have sufficient time to save themselves before getting buried by ash and lava.  Much of the excavations at Pompeii are now complete and the art and artifacts are preserved in the National Archaeological Museum in Naples. Herculaneum is due West of Vesuvius, closer to Naples - excavations here are currently underway.  It is famous as one of the few ancient cities that can now be seen in almost its original splendor, because unlike Pompeii, its burial was deep enough to ensure the upper stories of buildings remained intact, and the hotter ash preserved wooden household objects such as beds and doors and even food. Moreover, Herculaneum was a wealthier town than Pompeii with an extraordinary density of fine houses, and far more lavish use of colored marble cladding. The discovery in recent years of some 300 skeletons along the sea shore came as a surprise since it was known that the town itself had been largely evacuated.  We had time only for one Scavi so we visited Pompeii per original plan.  Vesuvius has erupted many times since - the only volcano on the European mainland to have erupted within the last hundred years -in 1944- and it will do it again some day.  Today, it is regarded as one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world because of its tendency towards explosive (Plinian) eruptions and the danger it poses to nearly 3 million population that lives in its shadows.  Volcanic and earthquake activity on Vesuvius is monitored closely.  We were told that with today's advancement in science/technology, they can predict volcanic activity as much as 25-30 days ahead.  But science could be wrong (we were told the same thing on Mount Etna the day before it erupted just a few days later, on Oct 26.)  The dilemma for local authorities is sending false alarms vs waiting too long. If they call for evacuations too often which turn out to be false alarms, it would be too disruptive for the population.  If they wait too long and then are unable to evacuate everyone, there would be hell to pay!
  
  - Any case, today was just a quiet day at Vesuvius.  What we saw was just a heap of volcanic ash with one small plume of steam coming out from one side.  We were told that it was mostly water, no toxic fumes.
  
  
  
  - We took the 2 PM bus which took us to the park entrance.  The ticket (€12 round trip) nearly doubled when park entrance (€10) was added.  We then exchanged to a different ticket and climbed a 4X4 Humvee like bus, which took us to the drop off point.  The road was rough and winding, and we didn't see any hiking trails.  It is another 25 minute hike - gentle steady uphill around the side of Vesuvius - from South to West face, to the rim of the crater.  At 4000 ft, it is not very impressive.  It was hazy but you could make out the towns below along the shore - all the way to Naples.
  
  - All English speaking tourists were asked to wait for a guide, who explained the basic history of the mountain.  We then walked along the rim on our own.  There is another entrance to the North (where tours come from Herculaneum) - we could walk around up to that point and back.  Then it was back tracking down to Pompei Scavi train station.
  
  - Having seen the destroyer, we wanted to see its destruction at Pompeii right away.  But it was late in the day, and it was time (6:30 PM) for our homemade Italian dinner at the B&B.  The dinner went on for 2 1/2 hours - the courses just kept coming.  There were total 22 guests at dinner - mostly British.  This was a one week "Autumn" break for British schools.  That's why.
• Tue Oct 22 - Plan for today was to take Circumvesuviana train to the South end of the Blue Line (to Sorrento), enjoy the famous Amalfi coast by taking a bus to Amalfi and back, and end the day back at Pompei Scavi (ruins.)
  
  - A €2.20 ticket each way to Sorrento plus a €7.60 all day bus pass was today's excursion.  Distance to Sorrento is less than to Naples, but it seemed to take much longer.  Part of the route is single tracking, which caused delays.  Lot of school children got on the train.  The train runs by the coast, part hilly, part by the harbor, through tunnels - very scenic.  At Sorrento, the bus for Amalfi was just outside the train station - one level down.  Everyone wanted to sit on the passenger side of the bus - facing the ocean, for best views - as Rick Steves said.
  - It was a picture perfect day, the weather was pleasant, sea calm, and crowds not too overwhelming.  If it weren't for the nearly 3 1/2 hours we spent waiting for a bus or a train, it would have been even more enjoyable.
  
  - We let the first bus go and got on the next one, which was only up to Positano, 9 km away.  We decided to stop there first, and then take the next bus to Amalfi - no big deal.  Positano is a nice little touristy town, perched at the edge of the cliffs, with colorful houses and hotels lined up all the way down to the beach.  Narrow winding roads, turn in to alleyways, lined with boutique shops and souvenirs galore.  The ocean was very quiet - not much wave action.  The beach was gravelly, not sandy.  Good for sunbathing, but this was not quite the season - so it was fairly empty.
  
  - We hiked back up to the bus stop.  Must have missed the next bus to Amalfi, because we had to wait almost an hour before the next one showed up.  As nice as the scenery is, it becomes monotonous quickly.  Along the way, there were small towns and hotels.  One hotel had an American flag flying.  During WWII, Allied forces landed in this area before making a push up North to free the rest of Italy.  This was a token gesture for those sacrifices by U.S. soldiers.
  
  - We reached Amalfi at 1:12 PM.  The next bus back was at 1:30 and then at 2 PM.  Amalfi is a big tourist trap.  A cruise ship had arrived that morning, so the population of town was 3000 more today than otherwise.  These tourists were walking around, taking pictures, eating pizzas and gelato, window shopping and buying things.  We walked around the main Piazza, drank water from the fountain, walked around some alleyways.  The panorama below is from the farthest point on the pier.
  
  - The 2 PM bus was a bit late coming, and then got stuck in the traffic on the way back.  We missed 3:25 train back to Pompeii and reached Pompeii ruins at 5 PM.  We still had two hours before it closed (and got dark.)  We selected a few key houses to visit in the time we had.  Audio guide definitely helped.  Many areas along the way were blocked off/closed, but there was plenty to see.  We were able to go all the way to the other end - to Colosseum and back.  Walking on the cobblestone for two hours makes you realize how rough walking would have been back two thousand years ago without fancy hiking shoes.  Any case, it was impressive to see how well thought out the city was, the roads, drainage, even crosswalks, and so on.  All the art and other collections are preserved at Naples Archaeological Museum, which we will visit tomorrow.  If today's ticket was good for 24 hours (instead of just today), I would have come back the next day and spend some more time.  But that was not to be.
  
  - Back to our B&B for dinner.  Several groups were leaving the next days, so were we.  So we said good bye's and went back to our room.  
  
  
  
• Wed Oct 23 - Today's Plan was to go to Naples (visiting Herculaneum was tempting), drop our bags at Napoli Centrale station for the day, sightsee Naples - Archaeological Museum -click to see more - (Secret Room or youtube), Catacombe di San Gennaro, Cathedral etc., pick up our bags and go to the ferry terminal for overnight ferry to Palermo, Capital of Sicily.
  
  - Things started well today, transportation-wise.  The train to Naples arrived on time, it wasn't too crowded, and it was a fast train, so we reached Naples at 9:30 am.  After dropping our bags off (€3 for first five hours and then €0.70/hr.), we found the tourist information center.  The lady at the desk was very helpful.  She highlighted places we wanted to visit, which trains or buses to take, etc.  With a day pass for €3.70, we were all set for the day's travel.
  
  - First stop was the Archaeological Museum by taking Line 2 and then walk to Line 1.  The museum was right at Line 1 station - didn't even have to ride the train.  Walked up to the museum, purchased tickets (no line) and audio-guide.  By now. we had realized the value of audio guides - we shared one.  Most artifacts from Pompeii were intact, and now well laid out in this museum.  It was impressive to see how evolved those paintings, mosaics and frescoes were two thousand years ago.  Naples was also an empire by itself (like Florence and Venice) until Roman empire came along.  Lot of their own art is also displayed in this massive building.  We easily spent 3 hours in the museum.
  
  - Just outside, we caught C63 bus going to Catacombe di San Gennaro, the best catacombs in Naples.  We reached there at 1:15 PM, and the next tour was at 2 PM.  The Cathedral under which the catacombs were, was also closed.  So we waited outside.  We had heard about catacombs of Paris, where skeletons of priests were hanging along the walls.  (Then again, we had heard about sewers of Paris too.)  I didn't know what to expect here.
  
  - For the tour, we walked down several flights of stairs along the cathedral, and then entered catacombs near the bottom.  These were privatized only 3 years ago, and more excavations are planned.  Excavated areas are all burial chambers - stacked on top of each other.  Depending on the size of the chamber (and money), some had frescoes and other decorations.  All skeletons are now removed to nearby central cemetery.  Catacombs served as safe hiding places during WWII here and elsewhere.  Being part of a church, Germans couldn't enter them.
  - We climbed down few more levels within the catacombs.  At the end of the tour, the guide gave us an alternate way out - get out at this level, out through the hospital, climb a few stairs to get back to the main road.  As we entered the hospital coming out of a burial site, it was saddening to see one family - couple of women and handful of men - grieving in their own ways for someone they had just lost.  Too much death and destruction in Naples/surrounding.
  
  - As we got back on the main road, a bus came by that took us to Piazza Dante.  We needed to refill our cash reserves before we left for Sicily - not knowing whether we would find BNL (Bank of Italy) there or not.  Most hotels and restaurants accepted credit cards, but just in case.  After that, we walked through alleyways of Naples towards the Cathedral.  We also had to eat the authentic Naples pizza - supposedly the "original."  Of course, Sicilians say the same thing!  Margherita - tomato and mozzarella - is the most common/popular - like the cheese pizza in the U.S.  Between the taste of their dough, cheese and wood fired oven, pizza in Italy does in fact taste refreshingly different than in the U.S.  Pizza is very profitable for the restaurants (so is pasta for that matter!) - very little effort goes in to making it for the price they charge.   €8 for a medium thin crust (12"), could cost twice as much near touristy places.  This size is a bit too much for one person for one meal, but not by much.  Not being a fan of pasta, I ended up tasting pizzas in all the famous places we visited in Italy.
  
  - We had plenty of time, so we wandered around Naples, past the Duomo, back to Napoli Centrale.  On the way, we noted where to catch the 151 bus that would take us to the Ferry Terminal an hour later.
  
  - Going to toilet is not something we think about UNTIL we need to go.  In Europe, you need to pay for that privilege -  €0.50 at churches,  €1 at train stations, and so on.  (Thank goodness, airports are still free.)  There was a big McDonalds at the entrance of Napoli Centrale train station - surely THEY must have free toilets!  Well, they do - for their customers only.  A  €2.75 pistachio ice cream gave us a receipt with a bathroom code - good for 45 minutes or so.  Of course, you can always wait by the door to open and enter without a receipt!
  
  - Back to Bus 151, where the driver promised to drop us off at the "right" place, but in reality dropped us two blocks farther away.  We could see the ship - about half the size of our cruise ship later, but still large enough.  Bottom five decks were for cars - you could take your car with you.  Upper floors were guest rooms.  We had a double room with a tiny bathroom.  For  €125, we get a room for the night AND transportation to the next stop.  Definitely a good way to travel.  The boat left promptly at 8 PM and soon it was dark outside.  We walked around a bit and then retired to our room.  Next morning, we would be in Sicily.         
  

  

  Duomo of Naples

• Thu Oct 24 - I had high expectations and curiosity about Sicily.  It was difficult to fit it in to our itinerary - and within budget - just to get there.  Beyond the south tip of the Boot is Sicily - still considered a separate country by some Sicilians.  Although the Mafia is gone, Sicily is known for petty crime, car thefts and rash drivers.  It is also known for its lemons, olives, oranges and tomatoes, not to mention tourist attractions.  People visit Sicily by itself for weeks.
  
  - We were going to drive in Sicily - because we had only two days to cover Palermo, Agrigento - Greek Temples in the South, Piazza Armerina -Mosaic Castle in the middle, and Mount Etna/ Catania/ Seracusa in the East.   
  - Palermo: Sicily's regional capital and largest city is bustling, chaotic and dusty, yet interesting.  It seemed like a smaller version of Naples.  We had about an hour to walk around in the morning before we picked up our rental car and headed out of town.  Our ferry reached Palermo at 7 am.  It was 7:30 by the time we got off the ship and Free Shuttle dropped us off at the entrance of the Port.  Next two days, GPS was going to be critically important to navigate us through Sicily - and by and large, it worked well.  Half a km away from the Ferry Terminal, we reached a large piazza by the theatre.  Turn right and a couple of blocks away was the rental car place (Hertz.)  We were there early.  The place opened at 8:30 - but the owner let us keep our bags so we could walk around.  When we returned, we went through the standard process of renting a car and more.  I had originally requested a car with GPS, but those are only available at the airport - good, we didn't need it anyways.  We got an upgrade - a four door car with covered (not visible) trunk - a Fiat 500 - a stick shift kind.  It had been 10-12 years since I drove a stick shift, but it comes back to you pretty quickly.  The first few minutes in Palermo, however, were hair-raising for sure.
  
  - The agent brought out the car and inspected for damage with me.  He told me that the gas tank was full (it wasn't, but I didn't notice it at the time.) and that I should return it the same way.  I had to pull the car out on that narrow one-way street and my left leg had forgotten about the "clutch."  Finally, we got out and following the directions to get on the freeway, as we were about to... and that's when I noticed that the gas was only half full.  We immediately called Hertz and they asked to bring the car back.  The agent then took us to a nearby gas station to fill it up.  By the time I dropped him back at Hertz and we got on the freeway, my stick shift re-training was complete.  There is only one rule of driving in Palermo - that there are NO rules.  You have to be on high alert at all times.
  
  - Once on the freeway, things were more normal.  Within minutes, we were out of Palermo and the traffic was minimal.  In a couple of hours, we were in Agrigento about 80 miles (124 km) away.
  
  - Agrigento is known for the "Valley of the Temples" - a large archaeological site outside town surrounded by olive groves and almond orchards.  These are several ancient Greek temples, including the Temple of Concord - one of only two completely standing ones in Sicily. The other is at Segesta closer to Palermo.
  
  - We parked at the bottom of the hill in a private parking lot for €3 and walked up to the top.  Near the bottom are most of the ruins - rocks strewn around - caused by earthquakes over the years.  The temples at the top are in better preserved condition.  A trail brings you to the entrance of the Park, where a €10 ticket lets you in.  A nice paved road goes all the way to the top of the hill.  (If you were willing to pay, a taxi would drive you from the parking lot below to the top.)  The hill is neither too tall, nor steep.  The South coast of Sicily is only a mile or so away.  Very panoramic.
  - We next headed East/Northeast to Piazza Armerina about 60 miles (101 km) away.  These being top attractions in Sicily, road signs are very clear.  Although we were traveling on country roads - one lane each way, the roads were very well maintained, and with very little traffic.  The Roman villa just outside the town has the most extensive mosaic pavements of the ancient Roman world, composed of rural scenes, pictures of flora and fauna, and classical motifs. Most of it is in exceptional condition, looking as if it were completed yesterday. To keep it that way, they have erected walkways / platforms over the entire house so you can view it without damaging it.  Signs placed every few feet explain what each room was used for and what the mosaics represent.
  
  - After leaving the castle/palace, we headed north on SP12 to Enna where we would catch freeway A19 on to Mount Etna 124 km away.  We had received an email from Hotel Corsaro saying that we do NOT have a dinner reservation for tonight (I didn't know that we had to make a reservation anyways.)  It was about 5:30PM when we called the owner, David Corsaro, to confirm our room reservation.  He estimated that it would take us about 1 1/2 hours to get to the hotel.  By then, he would be gone home (He lived in the same town Nicolasi - near the bottom.  The base of Mount Etna is surrounded by towns on all sides.  The convention is that the town at the bottom claims the slice of the mountain all the way to the top.  Hence, the hotel, the cable way are all in Nicolasi.  From the top, you see many cable ways going in different directions - some destroyed by previous eruptions on Mount Etna over the years.)  We got lost getting on the freeway A19 at Enna - missed an exit, and then got stuck at a railroad crossing for 15 minutes only to find a sole engine (no train) go by.  Half an hour lost.
  
  - The first time we saw Mount Etna was soon after we got on A19, from about 50 miles away West.  It was a large, gently sloping mound rising almost 11000 ft.  Its peak appeared to be in clouds, but as we got closer, we realized that we were seeing smoke coming out.  Yeah, that was much more action than we saw at Mount Vesuvius two days earlier.  If you are visiting a volcano, may be some action is warranted.
  - About Mount Etna: Europe's greatest natural wonder is a living, sacred mountain of legend and myth.  The most common route is through the road leading to Sapienza Refuge, at elevation of 1910 m.  It has parking, several bars, a hotel, and is a starting point for the cable car, which takes you to the elevation of 2500 m.  From there, visitors can either take a drive with special terrain vehicles, or a long hike to the designated crater area at 2920 m.  The top of the mountain is approximately 3350 meters (11,000 feet.)
  - Once on the freeway, it was smooth sailing to Catania and then on A18 North for a few miles before taking the Nicolasi exit.  Here, we hit the rush hour traffic.  Although the road we were on was the only one going up to the top (Strada provinciale 92 or State Road 92), every intersection had a roundabout (traffic circle) with lots of confusing signs.  We weren't sure if we were going in the right direction until the traffic thinned out and we saw clear signs for the summit.   It was getting darker, and reading street signs was getting difficult.  
  
  - We must have traveled several km as the road wound up through the woods, in total darkness and no cars in either direction.  Then we saw the sign "Hotel Corsaro 12 km"  If we had not gotten lost earlier in Enna, we would have been here half an hour earlier -before it got dark- and been able to enjoy the view going up.  Now, we could only see the hotel lights appear and disappear as the road turned, but we had no idea how the road would take us there.  It did! 
  
  - Hotel Corsaro - at an altitude of 1910 meters, only 300 meters from the cable way to the top - had free Wi-Fi and free parking.  Breakfast included, and discounts for excursions to top craters, and cable car. 
  
  - As mountain climbers know, skies are generally clear in the morning.  So the sooner you get there, the better.  Even better, if you get there the previous night, so your body has more time to adjust to higher altitude, and be ready for action the next morning.
  
  - We reached the hotel around 7:30 PM.  There were only 3 cars parked in front, including ours.  The hotel was practically empty.  It was after the summer tourist season, and before the winter ski season.  We got a huge room with one king bed, one bunk bed with two twins, private bathroom - all very spacious and nice.  The hotel restaurant was closed, but the B&B Refugio Sapienza restaurant, 300m away, was open until 10 PM.  It was next to the cable car which we will be riding the next day.  It was too dark even to see the road, so we drove.  The restaurant was fairly big - must be drawing good crowds during the season - but today only 3 tables were occupied.  The choice was simple - Sicilian Pizza.  I ordered the Sapienza special - it was simply the best pizza I have eaten.  Of course, whole pizza was too big to finish so it took care of lunch the next day.  The pizza box had a nice picture of Sicily showing specialties of each place in Sicily.- a good conversation piece!

• 
• • Fri Oct 25 - I woke up early enough to watch the sunrise.  It was cloudy/foggy however - and later turned hazy for the rest of the day - at lower elevations,  You could see dark lava flows all around us - black and brown - mostly gravel or coarse sand like.  Breakfast didn't begin until 8 am, and cable cars until 9 am - so we had plenty of time.  Hotel Corsaro had by far the most lavish breakfast of any of our stops (except the cruise) - and they had only 3 hotel rooms booked the previous night.  After breakfast, we drove to the cable car area, but free parking was very limited, so I parked the car back at our hotel and walked.  The tickets are pricey - cable car only (€29.50 round trip) takes you from 2000 m to 2500 m.  Add a 4 wheel drive bus ride for several kilometers plus a guided tour of 2001 and 2002-03 craters to 3000m to make it a standard excursion (€57.50 - €46 with hotel discount.)  This takes about 2 1/2 hours.  As tempting as the grand tour of Summit Craters was (3330m, €70), it would have required additional 3 hours, which we simply couldn't spare.  (In hindsight, because Etna was about to have an eruption the very next day, may be we should have made time!)  
    
    - It was early enough, so no lines for cable car.  From Nicolosi Nord - Rifugio Sapienza (1.923 m,), you reach an altitude of 2.500 m.  The same route may also be taken by off-road vehicles, or you could even hike.  Here, they supply you winter clothing if necessary (included.)  Today, just our windbreakers were sufficient.
    
    - The second part is only by humvee like vehicles, Mercedes- Benz Unimog, which take you to authorized crater confines, accompanied by expert and experienced drivers.  Wide gravel roads wind up their way for several kms.   On the East, you have an incomparable panorama extending out to the sea.  On other sides, you can admire the impressive Central and South-eastern craters, ancient and recent lava flows which characterize the surrounding area. The Mount Etna guides will take you as close to the active volcano as local safety regulations allow.  These could - and do - change anytime.
    
    - Some history:
    - 1983 AND 1985 ERUPTIONS - Southern slope - These two eruptions did not affect other towns or villages, but caused damage to tourist facilities on the southern side of Mount Etna (Nicolosi).  Lava flows from both eruptions destroyed the modern cableway and skiing facilities - also part of the provincial road 92 Nicolosi- Rifugio Sapienza.  During the 1983 eruption volcanologists tried to divert the lava flow with the use of explosives for the first time.
    - 2001 ERUPTION - Southern slope - This flow was as devastating as the one in 1983.  It also destroyed the cableway and skiing facilities. The Provincial road Rifugio Sapienza- Zafferana was also interrupted by the lava flows.
    - 2002 ERUPTION - Southern and Northern slopes - This eruption was characterized by two craters. One on the Southern slope, whose lava flows covered the ones from 2001 and the other on the Northern slope, whose flow, in only a few days, destroyed the tourist facilities of the Northern side of Mount Etna - Piano Provenzana.
    - Guides walk you around 2001 and 2002 eruptions where you still see steam coming out from vents on one side and permanent ice under layers of volcanic ash on the other.  The main 4 peaks are just to the north, only 300-400 meters higher, and today, very quiet.  Some steam was escaping from the main peak, and that's about all.
    
    - The guide told us how fortunate we were to have 60 degree weather this late in October - and not below freezing.  Also, how Etna was quiet today with no major seismic activity expected in the near future (Boy, was he wrong!)  He also told the story of how several months earlier, the top crater was full of lava, but not today.  That certainly would have tempted us to hike to summit craters.
    - We had to return to the hotel, check out and then head out to Seracusa 100 km south and then return to Catania back 65 km north for overnight stay.  So after taking in that 2 1/2 hour experience, we worked our way back.  By now, we saw several hikers climbing from cable car, instead of taking the 4X4 vehicles.  It was a perfect day for hiking.
    
    - We checked out of the hotel, and drove back down Mount Etna to A18 which took us down to Seracuse (Seracusa) through Catania.  Archimedes, Plato and Saint Paul loved Syracuse.  It was one of the most important cities of the ancient Greek world, and the most important in Greek and Roman Sicily.  For us, the main attraction was the old city, Ortygia, with its charming, narrow streets (mostly closed to traffic), and some fascinating treasures. The cathedral was the ancient Temple of Athena, whose columns and walls are still visible throughout the church.  There also ruins of Apollo temple, and Archimedes Fountain.  We parked just before crossing the bridge to Ortygia Island and walked around this quiet island with shoreline - mostly walled, but some beaches here and there, the harbor, and wide open space with ocean views.  Ortygia is considered a better alternative to Taormina in the North.  We looked for the Roman Amphitheatre, which is in ruins.  We circled around it for a quick view, but didn't stop.
    

    

    Archimedes Fountain, Isola Ortigia, Seracusa

    - On the way back to Catania, we saw Mount Etna again - it was in clouds by now.  An hour later, we reached Catania.  Airport was on our way, only about 5 miles or so from our Agora Hostel tonight.  Old city, like any others, is full of narrow winding streets with shops, street vendors and farmers market.  Winding our way through it, we found our Hostel.  This was a true youth hostel, with large rooms with bunk beds, people walking in and out all the time.  On the ground floor, was a large living room with sofa and TV.  Next to it was a small kitchen where they would serve breakfast of juices and muffins.  You could cook there if you wish.
    - Before it got dark, we walked to the Catania Cathedral and Elephant Fountain only 5 minutes away.  This is a rather large Piazza with the fountain in the middle and Cathedral in front.  Even a small town like Catania has nice churches like this.  This was the only place we wanted to visit in Catania - being only 500 feet away from our hostel was very convenient.
    
    - At the hostel, I asked the front desk for a recommendation for a restaurant.  He said the one next door is very good.  I was sure that he was saying it only because it was on the premises.  But he was in fact right.  The place was very popular as we found out later that night.  When we reached the hostel the first time, there were only 5-6 tables outside (and no customers.)  One of the waitresses was setting up more tables.  I asked her how busy she expects it to get at night.  She was getting off at 9 PM, but she expected things would pick up after that and go on until 2 am.  She had set up 30 tables and a canopy around, and when we had dinner, the entire place was full and buzzing with action.  The dinner as usual lasted for 2 1/2 hours. 

  • 

    Piazza del Duomo, Catania

• Sat Oct 26 - Our flight to Milan was at 9:25 am.  Before that, we had to return our rental car back at Hertz.  It was only 15 minutes to the airport, and Hertz opened at 8 am according to the information we had.  GPS directed us to Hertz facility were they stored their cars, a couple of miles away from the airport.  We got lost getting there, but still reached before 8 am.  This was an industrial district, and there was no place to park our car outside Hertz, so we drove around a bit.  From one point, I saw Mount Etna with a big plume of white steam shooting up.  The sun was just coming up - making the steam above a certain height shine brilliantly, but below that it looked dark.  Even as the sun rose further, the dark part remained.  Couldn't quite figure out why that would be.  (The mystery cleared when we saw in fact two plumes from the plane - white one shooting much higher than the other dark one from a different cone.)
  
  
  
  - At 8 am, Hertz doors were still closed, so we called.  We then realized that the drop off facility was at the airport (as usual), not where we were.  We then drove to the airport.  I dropped Kedar off so he could get boarding passes while I returned the car.  We had filled €50 worth of gas previous night, but because we got lost this morning, the gas gauge slipped down one notch.  I had seen a gas station a couple of miles away, so I drove there, filled €4 worth of gas, returned the car at Hertz and walked back to the airport terminal.  It was then I found out that the airport was shut down briefly due to Mount Etna eruption and possibility of earthquakes.  Our flight coming from Milan got delayed by about half an hour, and ours left with the same delay.  As we took off, I was hoping to get a glimpse of Etna eruption.  We got much more than that.  We had a window seat on left side of the plane - perfect for viewing and taking pictures.  Our flight was going straight North, just East of Etna, and it gave us several minutes of Etna viewing.  We landed in Milan around Noon.  Two hour flight to cover 652 miles.
  
  - By now, we had become expert travelers in Italy.  We found that buses running every 20 minutes from MXP airport for (€10 one way, 16 round trip) was the best option to reach Milan (not trains.)  We had to return to MXP tomorrow to fly to Budapest anyways.  I had pre-checked my backpack at Catania to Milan.  I didn't pick it up - because I didn't need it for one day trip to Budapest.  Let it stay here in Milan for a couple of days - for free. 
  
  
  
  - With day pass (€4.50) in hands, we were ready for Milan.  People visit Milan for a variety of reasons.  It is the fashion capital, financial capital, it has Da Vinci's Last Supper, to name a few.  Tickets to Last Supper were sold out a long time ago.  Besides, we were told that the painting is not in good shape, you are allowed in only for a few minutes and no photos allowed.  Oh well!  We had plenty of other things to see.
  
  - First stop in Milan - the Cathedral.  The facade is so massive that you really have to step away to the other end of Piazza (Piazza del duomo) to fit in to the frame as you can see.  Adjacent to it was Galleria Vittorio - built behind the victory arch is this large cross-shaped shopping mall.  It was Saturday afternoon.  Large crowds were everywhere.  Beyond the Galleria, Leonardo (Da Vinci, of course.  But who needs more than just the first name!) had his statue in a small park.  We walked beyond looking for a local place to eat lunch, found one (€14 for two.)  Next, we took Metro two stops away, looking for this church with wonderful paintings (Santa Maria delle Grazie).  In front of the station, we saw this massive castle (Sforza Castle), and decided to check it out.  It is a museum now.  Beyond that was large Sempione Park and at the other end an Arch (Arco della Pace.)  Even the park was crowded today, but we'd prefer walking in a park any day.  We walked all the way to the arch so we could take the photos of the horses and chariot on top of the Arch.  Returning back to the castle, we started looking for the Church - a few hundred feet in the other direction.  A non distinct looking building had these wonderful paintings - definitely worth a visit.  We then took Metro back to Milano Centrale, a couple of miles Northeast.  Because of plumbing problems, our B&B had made our arrangement at a different hotel, Hotel Sicilia, a couple of miles further north.  Tram 5, which ran just in front of Milano Centrale train station terminated at the Hospital.  A few hundred feet away to the left was our hotel.  This young girl at the front desk spoke no English.  We had called the hotel earlier to get directions and spoke with the manager who could speak English, but he was away at the moment.  The girl knew nothing about our reservation, and the language barrier came in the way.  Then she asked if we spoke Spanish - luckily, Kedar did.  So finally she found our reservation.  Our room wasn't ready, but the manager came a bit later to let us know.  As usual, we had walked enough for the day, and had to get up early next morning.  So lights out early!
• Sun Oct 27 - Budapest, Hungary - Things to see/do: Buda Castle, St Stephen's Basilica, Fisherman's Bastion, Chain Bridge, Parliament, Heroes' Square, Palace of Art, City Park, Ice Skating Rink, Vajdahunyad Castle turned museum, etc.  The name BudaPest comes from two cities - Buda on the West side of Danube and Pest on the East.  We had heard a lot about Budapest and had to got see it.
  
  
  - We woke up in Milan at 5 am, checked out of Hotel Sicilia at 5:20 and walked back to the tram stop 100 m away near the Hospital.  The 5:47 am Tram 5 arrived on time and dropped us off in front of Milan Centrale station by 6:05 am.  On the right side of the station, Malpensa Shuttle bus (we already had the round trip ticket.) was waiting.  It left on time at 6:20 am and reached MXP airport at 7 am.  As usual, by the time we traversed the long airport corridors, boarding had started.  For a change, they checked our passports (but not stamped.)  Then on to a bus to the plane.  It had started raining here in Milan just as we were leaving.  Weather in Budapest was perfect today.  Wizz Air – an Hungarian airline – is inexpensive like other discount airlines Ryan Air and Easy Jet (both UK based.)  The ticket was only €40 per person each way – mostly taxes.  You are allowed to carry only one small carry-on.  For this one day trip, we left my backpack at MXP airport - courtesy EasyJet.
  
  - Wizz Air’s plane Airbus 310 was old and noisy, but it was on time and took us to Budapest safely.  We got out within minutes – no immigration, nothing.
  
  - Hungary’s currency Forint (1 USD = 200-225 HUF) will be needed to make any purchases.  That is not an issue where credit cards are accepted.  We were able to purchase a 24 hour pass (good on all public transportation in Budapest, including the ferry on Danube.  Later, we found out that ferries don’t run on Sundays.  Oh well.) for 1650 HUF – with a credit card.  A single ticket to the city by itself was 530 HUF.  In general, a day pass in Europe costs about three times a single trip ticket.  Even if you are using the day pass just 3 times, it is worth saving the hassle of purchasing a ticket each time - with correct change.  Also, a 24 hour ticket (vs. a Day Pass) is great for one day trips because it starts when you validate it the first time.  So you can use it for next 24 hours, including next morning to take a train back to the airport, if necessary.
  
  - Budapest town is about 15 km away from the airport.  The city has 3 train lines, but none comes up to the airport.  You take 200E bus (every 10 min.) from the airport terminal to the M3 (Blue Line) train station.  The train was waiting, left within minutes and dropped us off at Derck Ter where we switched to M1 (Yellow Line) going to Hosek Ter (Heroes' Square)  Mirage Hotel is short 1 ½ blocks away from the train station – facing the square.  It is a four star hotel for only $69, given the country’s exchange rate.
  
  - Our room wouldn't be ready until 2 PM, so we left our bags there and went on for sightseeing.  The hotel faced Heroes' Square.  As we reached the hotel, we had noticed large crowds gathering at the square, waving many different flags.  Soon, they started marching in front of the hotel over to the right.  It was some Romanian celebration, not a protest or anything.  After it passed by, we visited the square.  It memorialized their national heroes and major historical events.  Behind it was a large City Park that included a skating ring, the Vajdahunyad Castle - now turned in to a museum.  We didn't know at the time, but beyond that were Budapest's famous Thermal Baths.  
  - We went back to Metro and took Yellow line back to the other end.  This line is the oldest underground in Europe. It runs just one level below the street level.  It ends by the Danube River, near the city center.
  
  - At the entrance to the station, they were checking tickets.  Out tickets were stamped with today's date and time we purchased it - Oct 27 10 am.  TCs (ticket checkers) argued that our tickets had expired at 10 am this morning.  When you don't know the language, it is difficult to explain that we had JUST purchased those tickets and the time stamp was the STARTING time, not ending time.  We weren't sure if this wasn't just a scam to get more money out of us.  Luckily, the supervisor was around and he understood a bit of English.  Thankfully, he agreed and let us go.  I was concerned that this would happen the rest of the day - every time we got on a train or a bus.  Thank goodness, it didn't.
  
  - First order of business was to find an ATM to get some cash.  We exchanged 10000 HUF for $49.13.  It was funny carrying one single bill for such a large denomination.  At a nearby convenience store, we purchased a 1.5L bottle of water for 400 HUF and they gladly accepted out 10000 HUF bill and returned the change.
  - A tram runs parallel to Danube River on this east side (which is flat.  West side is hilly.)  We decided to ride that tram at night after dark.  For now, we wanted to check a few other things off our list - like the chain bridge.  Walking on the Chain Bridge is a wonderful experience.  The views are fantastic on either side.  We walked on the South / sunny side of the bridge.  At the other end, we reached Funicular - a steep sloping cable car, if you wish, that goes to the top of the hill.  It was not included in our Day pass.  On the left, there were steps up to Buda Castle, or we could take Bus 16, which went through a small tunnel and up to the top.  We took the bus.  It was about lunch time, and there was a large restaurant catering to tourists - so we ate lunch first.  (1250 HUF per person.)
  - On one side was the Buda Castle.  This large castle is perched on the hill with views on all sides.  We happened to reach there as the changing of guard ceremony was going on.  After that, we circled around the castle.  On the opposite side of the hill was Matthias Church and Fisherman's bastion, and then down the steps back to the Chain Bridge bus stop.  The only other thing in Buda (West) was the Statue of Liberty - kind of out of the way.  We saw it from a distance at night.
  - We had more to see on the Pest side, so we took Bus 16 back to the Central Station.  From here, Dohány Street Synagogue was nearby and was recommended for its artwork.  For 5500 HUF, we thought that the tour was way too expensive, and skipped it.  Around the corner was St Stephen's Basilica.  It was about to close, but we were able to go in. 
• 
  - It was now time to go back to the hotel and check in.  We made reservations for airport shuttle for the next morning (4 am), took a shower and rested until it was dark.  We wanted to see the city at night - ideally from a river ride on Danube, but that was not to be on Sunday.  Heroes Square was well lit, but quiet.  We took M1 line and wanted to switch over to M2 line to cross over to Buda - but that metro line also closed early on Sundays.  Instead, we took the M2 bus to the next bridge further North, and walked back on the bridge enjoying the clear weather, and taking the panorama of the Parliament building to the left, Chain Bridge in front and Buda Castle on right.  We thought of walking back to the Parliament building and back to our hotel.  There was so much construction around the Parliament that we almost got lost.  Finally, we found M2 bus which then brought us back to M1 metro line and back to our hotel.  We had to get up early next day, so we ended the day there.
  
  - Hungary is not part of EU.  There are distinct differences.  Traffic was very disciplined - they stopped at cross walks, and also as soon as traffic lights changed to YELLOW.  Imagine that!
  
  - WizzAir has gates 12-19 all in one area like a warehouse, separated by ropes.  The planes are parked just outside - you walk to it and climb the ladder.
  
  - McDonalds and Burger Kings are everywhere in BudaPest - sometimes on BOTH sides of the road - so people won't even have to cross the street!

• Cruise Experience (Oct 28-Nov 4)
• Mon Nov 4 - We got off the ship fairly quickly.  We knew our way back to P.Roma - so we just walked back, purchased 48 hour Vaporetto Passes (€30 each) and took Line 1 to San Zaccaria - one stop past St Mark's Square - where San Zaccaria Church and our Hotel Campiello were.  The alley to our hotel was flooded (as it does daily with high tides.  So does St Mark's Square.  They have high platforms laid out in popular areas for pedestrians to walk on when flooded.) so we took the next alley, which took us to San Zaccaria Church.  We then circled back to our hotel to drop off our bags.
  
  - First stop, of course, was St Mark's Square area.  All guidebooks warn about long lines to enter St Mark's Basilica, and a trick to avoid it (check in your bags in the alley nearby and show the security guard your check in tag to enter the Basilica without wait.)  We checked in my small backpack just to get the tag, and proceeded to the Basilica.  Today there was no line.  We noticed that the entire St Mark's Square had those high platforms laid out.  Nearly half the plaza was flooded ankle deep or higher - not possible to walk without getting water inside your waterproof shoes!  Enterprising Venetians were selling bright colored plastic boot covers for €9.  Jumping on to those high platforms was like entering a freeway.  People walking in either direction seemed to be in such a hurry, that you just had to sneak in.   This Basilica is huge and has a museum at the upper level, where the famous horses - both original and copies - are.  We wondered whether the view from the clock tower would be particularly different or interesting - and decided to skip it.  Forecast was for rain this afternoon, and it was looking pretty grim already, so we decided to visit a museum in Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale).  The palace is adjacent to the Basilica so you can see the back side of Basilica from there.  Giant's staircase, Golden staircase, Bridge of Sighs and depressing New Prisons are the highlights.  It was beginning to drizzle when we came out of the palace, but we wanted to visit at least a couple of churches, so we took the veporetto across to San Giorgio Maggiore Church and Santissimo Redentore church, before returning to the hotel.  For dinner, we found a TripAdvisor highly rated restaurant not too far away, for what else - a pizza.  At the waiter's insistence, we also ordered Tiramisu.  Like everything else, Tiramisu tasted more refreshing here.  We are expecting a clear day tomorrow so we can finish the remaining attractions in Venice.
• Tue Nov 5 - Finish sightseeing Venice - Accademia gallery, Rialto Bridge, Murano, San Rocco Church, St Maria of Salute Basilica, Frari, and many more churches.
  
  - I woke up early as usual.  Skies were clear, and weather just right.  I hopped on Line 2 Vaporetto, which followed the same route that our cruise ship took yesterday, and has very few stops - to P. Roma.  There, I switched to Line 1 to return back to San Zaccaria.  The colorful buildings of Venice looked so different on a clear, bright day.  Early morning traffic was also different.  Trucks would bring fresh fruit, vegetables and other supplies from mainland to P. Roma.  Little boats and canoes would then carry these supplies to all the stores, hotels and restaurants in Venice.
  
  - By the time I returned to the hotel, breakfast had started.  After Breakfast, we took Line 1 to Accademia.  It has rich collection of Venetian art from 14th to 18th century.  Audio guide is very helpful in understanding paintings and history.  By now, I am sold on the concept of audio guides.  After that, we walked in search of the Frari - considered one of the greatest churches, and is known for Titian's famous Assumption.   
  
  Titian was buried in this church, the same place where his famous painting (in situ) established him as a painter.  Frari is large but unassuming from the outside.  Inside is completely opposite.  Very impressive.
  
  - We continued towards P. Roma, crossing canals, through small alleyways, visiting churches along the way - San Rocco Church, St Maria of Salute Basilica, and many more.  We took Line 1 back via Rialto Bridge and San Marco and beyond to Murano.  Line 1 makes lots of stops, but is also great for taking in Venice - as seen in the movies and travel videos.  After the Hospital stop, Line 1 leaves the main island of Venice and making a stop at the Cemetery terminates at Murano.  This island is famous for glass making.  Shops lined up on all sides have displays of glass - small and large, in all shapes and colors imaginable and more.  Across the canal, we saw a sign for glass making demonstration.  We found our way to it.  It was late afternoon, and there were very few tourists.  Shops were open, but had hardly any shoppers.  We asked where the demonstrations were.  We were first told that the glass makers were gone for the day, but found someone to give a demo just for us.  I thought, after the demo, they will certainly try to pressure us in to buying something.  As the demonstration started, two more people joined, and then two more.  They all got the repeat of the same demo.  When we got up and left, no one ask or tried to sell us anything.  Strange!
  
  - Taking Line 1 Vaporetto back, we got off at the Rialto Bridge to watch sunset - we got some beautiful pictures.  From there, we walked back towards the hotel.  We had liked the restaurant we visited the day before, but it was closed today.  So we found another one.  After dinner, we returned to the hotel.  This was a good end to this 3 week adventure.  Tomorrow, back home!

• Wed Nov 6 - Another long day.  (So what else is new?)  We woke up at 3 am and left the hotel to catch 3:44 am Alilaguna ferry to VCE (Marco Polo Airport)  Our hotel was literally only 100 or so steps from the water, and the ferry stop was right there.  There were a handful of other passengers already waiting.  The ferry route begins one stop earlier - at St Mark's Square a few hundred meters away.  Anyone who has walked in Venice knows how much hassle it is to walk with your luggage on those cobblestone paths and bridges.
  
  - The ferry arrived on time, made several stops (just like Line 1) around Venice, the main island as well as Lido and other nearby islands before going to the airport 1 1/4 hours later.  It was about 5 am - way too early for our flight, which was at 6:55 am.  But the next ferry an hour later would have been too late.  We didn't want to cut it that close.  That turned out to be a good decision.  By 6 am, the security check line was very long.  One way ferry ticket was €15 (€14, if purchased online.)
  
  - From the ferry terminal, Departure lounge was 7 minutes walk away to the other side of the building.  You enter the terminal at the Arrival level and then go up one level to Departure gates.  At that hour, only one security station was open.  There were only about 15-20 people ahead of us, but the security screening area was very small so only a couple of people were allowed at a time.  Once inside, our gate was just around the corner.
  
  - Our first flight to Frankfurt (FRA) was on Lufthansa - 1 1/2 hours.  I thought that most passengers on this flight would be Germans; but they were mostly Americans.  This early morning flight connects at Frankfurt to several U.S. destinations within a 2-3 hour window.
  
  - At Frankfurt, international flights leave from Terminal 1 Z level, one level ABOVE where we arrived.  After walking for what seemed like a mile towards Exit/Transfer, we saw an elevator to Terminal Z.  This elevator only goes between those two levels.  There, in a small room, were two security officers who checked our boarding passes.  Behind them were two Immigration counters, where they checked our passports and stamped.  Through this entire trip, our passports had only two stamps.  First one at Paris where we entered EU (indicated by an IN arrow), and second now at Frankfurt where we are exiting EU (indicated by an OUT arrow.)  Thankfully, the second stamp is on the SAME page, and right below the first one.  No fumbling around the whole passport to find matching stamps.
  
  - We were now in Terminal Z.  Our flight was not yet listed.  We had United Lounge passes, but there is no United lounge at FRA.  Lufthansa lounge wouldn't accept our passes.  So instead we found a charging station by Gate 17, to charge our phone/tablet, and waited for our flight to be announced.
  
  - After a couple of hours, our flight was announced - at Gate 19.  There, United staff was directing everyone first to one of the TSA agents - who after asking the usual "did you pack your own bags" type questions, stamped our boarding passes.  With our Premier Access, we got the Economy Plus seats (better legroom) forward in the plane.  We were now in Row 20 - third row from the wall.  This Boeing 747 still had no personal TVs, so these were good seats to watch movies on the bigger TV screen on the wall.  They showed 3-4 movies and sitcoms - I watched them while trying to sleep so don't remember any.
  
  - United service was fairly good.  They served Lunch, Ice Cream and light breakfast at 2-3 hour intervals, like the earlier flight.  In between, they were regularly bringing water, and you could go back to the pantry and get other drinks or pretzel sticks, if need be.
  
  - We had left SFO at 2:45 PM three weeks earlier, and now we were returning at the same time.  We actually landed at 2:30 PM - 15 minutes BEFORE TIME, and United made sure that we were aware of it.  We were at immigration in no time, and not having any checked baggage, or anything to declare, walked out very quickly.  By 3 PM, we were at the BART station, and home by 5 PM.
  
  - My normal trick to avoid Jet Lag is to keep myself awake until the usual bedtime per local clock.  There are always plenty of things to do - take a shower, do laundry, check mail/emails, and so on.  I slept well, got up at my usual time, so I could begin my next day with my usual walk-swim-go to work routine.
• All in all, the trip was successful beyond my expectations.  With all the moving parts and things that could have gone wrong, I was surprised how well it all went.  The weather cooperated - we didn't need an umbrella at all, and the windbreaker only occasionally.  We were warned about pickpockets - use money belt, etc.  Thankfully, nothing happened.  Seas were so calm that sea sickness wasn't a problem.  Nor was altitude sickness - Mount Vesuvius is only 4000 ft high.  Mount Etna is taller, but because we stayed at 7000 ft the previous night, next day's climb of another 3000 ft, that too only for a couple of hours, did not present any problems.  Most places now accept credit cards, so carrying cash wasn't a big issue.  Most hotels had internet access, so keeping in touch was easy.  While in Italy, we had an Italian phone card with a data plan (€15 for 200 minutes and 1 GB data), so we had connectivity and GPS most of the time.  Only on the cruise, we were disconnected with the rest of the world - and that was refreshing.
  - Part of the fun in traveling is making (hopefully small) mistakes and learning from them.  We made plenty of them for sure (we got lost, took wrong turns, bought wrong tickets, to name a few), and corrected them as we went along.  Three weeks is a loooooong vacation.  After the first week, the enjoyment level begins to dwindle.  If you push too hard in the beginning, you tire quickly and then just drag the rest of the time.  Best way, I found, is to have a slow day after a long couple of days.  We also varied our activities from day to day, and skipped some things when necessary.  Our choices were castles, museums, palaces, churches and nature - and there were plenty of each.  So what if we didn't see every single one of them.  Language wasn't an issue for the most part.  If the person we were talking to didn't speak English, someone around would chime in and help.
  - What did we miss?  The REST of 17 countries and the REST of 55 days.  There is plenty more of Europe to see for sure, but Italy and Greece are well covered for now! 

For more, see Tidbits.